The restaurant is a short way down on the left. There were still twenty people waiting outside when I left at 9.
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You have to shout your order at them as they go past. My chap was a bit brusque at first but lightened up when I started taking notes! I even got a smile and a pat on the back. In there are only two pasta dishes on the menu; Lasagna with mozzarella, ricotta, salami, eggs and small meatballs or the equally classic Pasta e Fagioli various sizes of pasta tubes baked in a sauce of beans and tomato , both of which are subject to availability.
Think they have a choice of three pasta dishes now. I tried the Pasta e Fagioli on my visit. Just in case you feel cheated on the carbs, you also get half a French loaf, toasted and drizzled with olive oil C. I had the Peperoni Ripieni; a whole capsicum of truly gigantic proportions, stuffed with bread, capers and anchovies and slightly blackened again. The picture shows just part of it. There are about a dozen meat and fish mains, including some scary items like cotiche pig skin , and back in but no longer, busecca veal spleen.
The town can be divided into three zones; the medieval area, the 19th century area and the post-war area. All the places I mention in my posts predominantly in the first two areas can be found on this Google map. See my next three posts for restaurants and one on hotels. Most people alight in Salerno at Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the square in front of the train station where buses also terminate.
Conveniently, the Hotel Bruman where I stayed is located here. In the Middle Ages Salerno was a Lombard principality. The most picturesque street in in the old Lombard area is Via Botteghelle. Nearby is another must-see; the Cattedrale di Salerno. Inside my favourite sights are the two beautifully patterned pulpits. The ceiling above the altar is pretty stunning too. Salerno also has a castle on the hill above it; the Castello di Arechi. Built by the Lombards over a Phonecian fort it has Norman and Aragonese modifications.
Unfortunately, the castle is not accessible by foot, but the 19 bus goes up there. The tourist info at 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele will be able to help you with suggestions. Apparently there are many good walks in the area.
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A boat trip to Positano or Amalfi would make a good day out in the summer. You can also easily visit the Greek temples at Paestum best by bus or Pompei best by train. I always look forward to coming here though as the region, known as Irpinia , is very famous for its viticulture, in part due to the temperature changes made possible by its mountainous location. I went to two restaurants and a bar during my short second visit.
According to my research, this old school place is the best restaurant in town. I came for a blowout Sunday lunch and really enjoyed it. I began with Ravioli di Magro con Pomodorini; ricotta filled pasta pockets with cherry tomatoes A. I was still ravenous so I had the Manzo ai Ferri; grilled beef with some great olive oil, green peppercorns and oregano A.
I indulged myself with a slab of their excellent Millefoglie, made with chocolate and cherries A , alongside a glass of Passito B. I heard about this place through the blog of Luciano Pignataro, a local wine writer and restaurant reviewer. However, a more welcoming waiter, Paolo, and Giovanni the off-duty head chef persuaded me to stay and I was glad I did.
The dishes Pignataro raved about were out of season but they did put together a special menu for me. They are big on specialist ingredients here which meant the menu took some translating. The specialist ingredients all from Campania worked well together but not amazingly so B. I translate this as being a burger made with beef from the Podolica cattle breed from a particular farm served with a mixed salad, eggless mayonnaise, San Marzano tomato ketchup and chips. It was great A and I was particularly impressed by the ketchup A although the mayo was too subtle C. I finished with pear and ricotta crumble, also excellent A.
This cosy little place is a really cool literary bar that I stumbled across while I was walking around. They put on live acoustic gigs on a regular basis. Despite first impressions not being particularly favourable, you can eat and drink very well here so I hope you can make the most of it. I came here twice in three nights and had different but still very good experiences each time, hence the split rating. My notes go to pot here as I got chatting with a friendly couple on the next table.
This looks like grilled tuna steak. A bottle of the house Vermentino B was included in the price, however I added a glass of Lupus in Fabula which is an excellent local wine A. The Carignan grape is a local varietal that seems to have Spanish origins. For dessert their ricotta-filled seadas with yogurt ice cream were tasty but tiny B.
Dolceaqua see below does them better. The service I got was excellent. I received fresh cutlery for each dish and the plates had been warmed, a rarity in Italy. Definitely a place I want to come back to. Maybe reserve if you want to sit on the small terrace on a nice day. Palo, www. After reading about it in Lonely Planet, I came here for Sunday lunch and the food and service I got was very good.
The food was even served on a warm plate, hallelujah! For dessert, I had Seada con Miele e Scorzette de Arancia which is a kind of crepe filled with ricotta and doused with honey and served here with orange zest. The interior is quite modern but nods to tradition with local ceramics and old maps of the island on the walls. The service was fine, the food just okay. For my primo, I had the Gnocchi di Farina Galluresi, some unusually textured pasta made from spelt and tossed in a simple but tasty tomato sauce A. I followed up with the Arrosto Misto di Carne, a mixed grill involving a pork chop, bacon on the bone, a sausage and a slice of lamb, all of which were fine but plain and uninteresting B-.
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The small portion of roast potatoes that came with the meat were fine though B so maybe order Patate al Forno instead. To go with these a bottle of the house red Cannonau di Sardegna Sella-Mosca www. The name comes from the practice of using a thick piece of wire to indicate the hiding place of the secretly buried bottle! Another Lonely Planet pick, handy for the Hotel Panorama. I had an okay Pizza Margherita here B.
I had a good seafood set menu for lunch here. Nice old place but a bit dark and slightly gloomy brightened by pleasant service. One of many pizzerias in the area but this one seems to be the most popular with the locals, and is open the latest. Factoid: Sardinians are the biggest consumers of beer per person in the whole of Italy at 60 litres per person per year!
By the way, the flag you can see on the bottle and everywhere in Sardinia is the St. I liked the Christmassy atmosphere here, very cosy and warm. The service is very young and inattentive but friendly. Perhaps avoid the indoor terrace where they have a patio heater pumping out carbon monoxide. These things should be outside.
La Lanterna above has better food and ambiance but is a bit more expensive I think. It was empty every time I passed by. While Olbia itself might not have much going for it, there are several good beaches in both directions along the coast. However one local couple I met felt that the trip via ferry was more hassle than it was worth at this time of year pre-season June and that it was nicer to be on a beach that had a good view of the island.
This webpage has more information if your interested. The ferry to the island leaves from the small village of Porto San Paolo. To get there from Olbia you need to take the southbound 5 bus but it only runs a few times a day before the peak season starts, around July 15th. Funnily enough I worked at the school in Porto San Paolo in and on the way back to town the teacher stopped off at Spiaggia Porto Istana , a nearby beach, so I could get a nice view of La Tavolara. The teacher said this was the beach where she personally spent the summer. Due to the lack of buses I decided to head instead in the opposite direction on the 4 bus towards Spiaggia Pittalongu , a twenty-minute drive to the north.
I got on the bus at Via San Simplicio, but if you want a seat, it would be advisable to get on a stop or two earlier because by the time I got on, it was already full with tourists, local kids and beach hawkers with their huge bags of tat. I meant to ask the driver for Lo Squalo a recommended beach bar but I ended up going to the end of the line to Spiaggia Bados. I think Lo Squalo is the fourth stop on Pittalongu.
I could easily have walked back but Spiaggia Bados seemed like a nice, relatively quiet spot and it had a nice view of La Tavolara on the horizon. I hunkered down in front of Bar Bados geddit? The food at Bar Bados is fine but nothing special, as is usually the case at the beach. Arselle by the way, are known as Coquinas in Spanish and English, and are a member of the Donax bivalve family. By contrast Vongole, which are more commonly eaten in Italy, are in the Veneridae family of Venus clams. And that was my day off. The next day it was time to say goodbye to Sardinia and head back to the mainland.
When you fly, make sure you look out of the window to catch a glimpse of the beautiful azure blue waters along the coast. I really must come back some time with the yacht. Olbia is the main town in the north-east of Sardinia and is the airport for the Costa Smerelda, the super-rich enclave developed by the Aga Khan and a group of international investors.
I was here twice in eighteen months. The first time was in the off season in mid-December for just four nights. A few months earlier this Northern tip of the island had suffered a tornado which caused a lot of damage but most of the repairs had been done by the time I arrived. In I stayed at the Hotel Stella www. The hotel is small and basic with a limited breakfast but strong, free wi-fi and friendly non-English-speaking staff. It was a huge improvement better location, rooms, breakfast and communication with staff and lived up to its name with a degree vista from its windy sun deck on the roof video here.
La Tavolara looms large on the horizon. I think the oldest building in town is Basilica Sam Simplico on Via Fausto Noce, named after the patron saint of the town, which dates from the 11th century. There is apparently a Nuraghe in the industrial part of town north of the harbour but I got lost as soon as I tried to walk there. Everything is handmade however so the steep prices are probably justified.
A very special product indeed. A stroll or jog along the waterfront is a slightly more pleasant option. Indeed when I went the second time in June I happily coincided with a beer and sausage festival along Corso Umberto, the main street through town. It seemed very popular with the locals, unlike these two policemen who foolishly decided to drive along the street while the festival was in full flow.
And of course the food is good see next post. There are heaps of good restaurants in Alghero and I was only there for two days and one night so please see this as just a brief impression rather than a definitive guide. I did find a few nice places in the old town though. The female owner was very unfriendly and made me feel like a nuisance as a single diner. I had their signature dish of Spaghetti Al Vecchio Mulino; pasta with mushrooms, tomatoes and Parma ham.
It was excellent A but so it should be. Barca won the game but the barman was quite restrained in his celebrations, perhaps for the sake of his custom. Run by partners Igor, who is Basque, and Elenor, who is Sardinian, the concept seems to be a kind of fusion pintxo bar. Plucking up his courage, Pino went up to the driver's side and tried to open the door but couldn't: it was locked. With the help of Saro, who seemed to have calmed down, he tried to reach the other door, against which the man's body was partially leaning, but the car, a large green BMW, was too close to the shrub to allow anyone to approach from that side.
Leaning forward, however, and getting scratched by the brambles, they managed to get a better look at the man's face. He was not sleeping; his eyes were wide open and motionless. The moment they realized that the man was dead, Pino and Saro froze in terror-not at the sight of death but because they recognized him. They had agreed on one thing since overcoming their paralysis upon recognizing the deceased: before alerting the police, they had to make another phone call.
They knew Deputy Cusumano's number by heart, and Saro dialed it. But Pino didn't let the phone ring even once. This is very important. You know as well as I do that Cusumano is a puppet.
With Luparello dead, Cusumano's a nobody, a doormat. Pino got the number from the operator. Though it was still only seven forty-five, Rizzo answered after the first ring. Rizzo, but. Luparello, you see, and. Saro had been listening to the conversation, his cheek pressed against Pino's.
They looked at each other, nonplussed. Rizzo acted as if they'd told him they'd just found some nameless cadaver. They headed toward town, to police headquarters. The thought of going to the carabinieri didn't even cross their minds, since they were under the command of a Milanese lieutenant. Voulez-vous nous parler de prix plus bas?
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En lire plus En lire moins. Livres Amazon Original. En savoir plus. Andrea Camilleri. The Modigliani Scandal English Edition. Ken Follett. Peter Robinson. Description du produit Extrait No light of daybreak filtered yet into the courtyard of Splendor, the company under government contract to collect trash in the town of Vigata. A low, dense mass of clouds completely covered the sky as though a great gray tarp had been drawn from one corner to another. Not a single leaf fluttered. The sirocco was late to rise from its leaden sleep, yet people already struggled to exchange a few words.
The foreman, before assign- ing the areas to be cleaned, announced that this day, and for some days to come, Peppe Schmmari and Caluzzo Brucculeri would be absent, excused from work. More than excused, they'd been arrested: the previous evening they'd attempted to rob a supermarket, weapons in hand.
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To Pino Catalano and Saro Montaperto-young land surveyors naturally without employment as land surveyors, but hired by Splendor as temporary "ecological agents" thanks to the generous string-pulling of Chamber Deputy Cusumano, in whose electoral campaign the two had fought body and soul and in that order, with the body doing far more than the soul felt like doing -the foreman assigned the jobs vacated by Peppe and Caluzzo, that is, the sector that went by the name of "the Pasture," because in a time now beyond memory a goatherd had apparently let his goats roam there.
It was a broad tract of Mediterranean brush on the outskirts of town that stretched almost as far as the shore. Behind it lay the ruins of a large chemical works inaugurated by the ubiquitous Deputy Cusumano when it seemed the magnificent winds of progress were blowing strong. Soon, however, that breeze changed into the flimsiest of puffs before dropping altogether, but in that brief time it had managed to do more damage than a tornado, leaving a shambles of compensation benefits and unemployment in its wake.
What the hell do you want? Saro obeyed automatically. He gives me the creeps. I don't even know him.
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Then Rizzo spoke. He was ready for anything, except that bizarre response. We thought it was only right-" "I appreciate it. But you must do your duty first. Good day. He was his friend, wasn't he? Maybe they had a fight," said Pino to reassure him. Urbane Sicilian police inspector Salvo Montalbano, whose exploits have sold more than four million copies in Europe, makes his long overdue U. Montalbano refuses to oblige his superiors who want a hasty close to the case, and it will take a corrupt lawyer's murder to break it open.
The author's view of Sicily is the all-too-common one of a poor and backward place that many would like to see separated from the rest of Italy. The maverick Montalbano doesn't hesitate to destroy clues or extract money from a crook to help a child, but his wrapping up the case by telling rather than showing, while acceptable to European audiences, may disappoint action-oriented American fans.
Copyright Cahners Business Information, Inc. Here in Italy, however, a cantina is a storage room, more often or not a wine cellar. During our first visit to the Sabina in , we were struck by the rustic, often ruined beauty of the doors to these cantinas. We took dozens of pictures of these doors here in Casperia, and also in neighbouring Roccantica. I always thought that someone with a more practiced eye, a better camera than mine, and time to wait for the right lighting could make an excellent calendar of pictures of those doors.
Photo of Casperia Cantina door courtesy of Richard Rooney. Note entry hole made for cats. But it has only been in the past little while, during our current stay in the Sabina, that I have had the opportunity to see inside some of these cantine the proper Italian plural for cantina and learn about the mysteries that lay hidden behind those doors Her parents were Italians who emigrated from Italy to the UK. Maria's father was from Sicily and her mother was from Frosinone in southern Lazio. She has been living here in Casperia for the past four decades. Maria holds the large antique key that opens her cantina.
Rivellini in Italian actually means ramparts. You can see one of the old defensive towers behind Maria in the photo. Maria and Paolo's house is a marvel. Maybe I have not seen enough houses in Casperia to realize that it may not be that unusual but to me the interior is absolutely magical. The kitchen and dining room area is a dream.
According to Maria, this part of the house was at one point stables. The animals lived in the lower floors and people lived above. The twisted, uneven, rustic beams in the ceiling attest to this section of the house's humble origins. The venerable, twisted beams in the ceiling of Maria's kitchen. This part of the house was once a stable. A few days back I spent some time with Maria, taking a walk through the vie and vicoli of Casperia, listening to her talk about the way the castle town was built and the connection between the many cantin as the proper Italian plural is cantine Visiting Maria's huge cantina was an eye opener.